Lake Balaton stretches nearly 80 kilometres across western Hungary, making it the largest lake in Central Europe. Locals call it the "Hungarian Sea," and once you see the water shimmering at sunset from a lakeside campsite, the nickname makes perfect sense. We spent two weeks driving around the lake, testing campsites on both shores and hiking the surrounding hills. Here's what we learned.
Understanding the Two Shores
The first decision any camper faces at Balaton is which shore to choose. They're surprisingly different in character, and your preference will likely depend on whether you prioritise swimming and socialising, or hiking and quieter surroundings.
The southern shore is flat, with shallow water that warms quickly in summer. It draws families and younger crowds, especially around Siofok and Zamardi. Campsites here tend to be larger and more commercial, often with swimming pools, restaurants, and entertainment programmes. If you're camping with children, the gentle entry into the water is a real advantage.
The northern shore is where we spent most of our time. The terrain is hillier, shaped by extinct volcanoes that now rise as vineyards and lookout points. Towns like Balatonfured, Tihany, and Badacsony have a more relaxed atmosphere. The campsites are generally smaller, and you're within walking distance of genuine hiking trails.
The Badacsony hill and vineyards overlooking Lake Balaton. Photo: Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
Best Campsites We Tested
Northern Shore Picks
Balatontourist Fured Camping in Balatonfured is well-maintained and right on the waterfront. The pitches are grassy and reasonably spaced, with mature trees providing shade. Hot showers, a small shop, and direct lake access are included. We paid around 15 EUR per night for a tent pitch in July. The town centre is a 15-minute walk, and the Tihany Peninsula trailhead is reachable by bus.
Strand Camping Badacsony sits at the base of Badacsony Hill, which means you can literally walk from your tent to one of the best short hikes around the lake. The climb to the Kisfaludy lookout tower takes about 45 minutes and rewards with panoramic views over the lake. The campsite itself is basic but clean, with a strong local feel.
Southern Shore Option
Aranypart Camping near Siofok offers a good middle ground between comfort and affordability. The site is large enough to absorb summer crowds without feeling cramped, and the water access is excellent for swimming. It's not a hiking destination, but it's a convenient base if you want to combine lakeside relaxation with day trips to the northern shore.
Hiking Near Lake Balaton
Most visitors don't realise that the Balaton Uplands National Park encompasses a significant area north of the lake, offering trails through volcanic landscapes, thermal lakes, and ancient ruins. Here are the hikes we'd recommend:
- Badacsony Hill Circuit (5 km, 2-3 hours): Start from the village, climb through vineyards to the basalt organ pipes, then continue to the Kisfaludy lookout. Moderate difficulty with some steep sections. Best in late afternoon when the light over the lake is extraordinary.
- Tihany Peninsula Loop (8 km, 3 hours): This mostly flat walk circles the entire peninsula, passing the famous Benedictine Abbey, the inner lake, and lavender fields (blooming in June). A gentle hike suitable for all fitness levels.
- Kali Basin Trail (12 km, 4-5 hours): A longer route through the volcanic basin north of Keszthely, visiting cone-shaped hills and abandoned stone cellars. Bring water as there are limited refill points mid-route.
Detailed trail maps are available at campsite reception desks and at the Balaton Uplands National Park visitor centres in Tihany and Keszthely.
Practical Information
Getting There
Lake Balaton is about 90 minutes by car from Budapest on the M7 motorway. Trains from Budapest Deli station run to lakeside towns on both shores, with the journey to Balatonfured taking roughly 2 hours. If you're bringing camping gear on the train, the IC trains have luggage areas, but it can be tight in peak season.
When to Go
July and August are the warmest months, with water temperatures reaching 25-28 degrees Celsius, but campsites fill up quickly and prices peak. We found early June and September to be the sweet spot: warm enough for comfortable camping, quiet enough to get a good pitch without booking months ahead, and the hiking trails are far less crowded.
What to Pack
Evenings by the lake can be cooler than expected, even in summer. Bring a warm layer and a sleeping bag rated to at least 10 degrees Celsius. Mosquitoes are active near the reedy southern shore from June onwards, so insect repellent is worth packing. Sun protection is essential during the day, as shade can be limited on some trails.
Local Resources
For official park information and current trail conditions, the Balaton Uplands National Park website provides regularly updated notices. The National Blue Trail passes through the Balaton Uplands and has dedicated route descriptions for the region.