The Bukk Mountains form Hungary's largest contiguous forested area, a rolling limestone plateau covered in ancient beech and oak woods. Bukk National Park, established in 1977, protects this landscape and its remarkable cave systems. We spent five days hiking through the park, covering trails from easy valley walks to full-day ridge traverses. It quickly became one of our favourite hiking areas in Central Europe.
Getting Oriented
The Bukk range sits in northeastern Hungary, roughly 130 km from Budapest. The main gateway towns are Eger to the south (famous for its wine and baroque architecture) and Miskolc to the east (Hungary's third-largest city, with good transport links). Lillafured, a small resort village nestled in a valley between the two, serves as the heart of the hiking network.
The park covers approximately 432 square kilometres, with elevation ranging from around 200m at the base villages to 959m at Istalloskoo, the park's highest point. The terrain is characterised by deep valleys, exposed limestone formations, and a plateau (Bukk Plateau) where the forest opens into meadows dotted with sinkholes.
The Bukk Mountains rising above Cserepfalu village. Photo: Pudelek / CC BY-SA 3.0
Recommended Trails
Szalajka Valley Educational Trail
Distance: 7.4 km (out and back) | Difficulty: Easy | Time: 2-3 hours
This is the most popular trail in the park, and for good reason. The path follows Szalajka Stream through a narrow valley, passing the multi-tiered Fatyol (Veil) Waterfall, an open-air forestry museum, and the Istalloskoo Cave where prehistoric tools have been found. The trail is well-maintained and mostly flat, making it suitable for families. We visited on a Tuesday morning in September and had long stretches to ourselves, though summer weekends are reportedly much busier.
Starting point is the Szilvasvarad trailhead, reachable by car (free parking) or by narrow-gauge railway from the village. The forestry railway itself is worth the trip, running vintage cars through the valley.
Bukk Plateau Traverse
Distance: 18 km | Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging | Time: 6-8 hours
This is the hike that defines the Bukk experience. Starting from Lillafured, the trail climbs steadily through dense forest before emerging onto the Bukk Plateau, a remarkable landscape of open meadows punctuated by geological sinkholes (dolines). The plateau sits at roughly 800-900m elevation and feels unexpectedly wild for its relatively modest altitude.
We followed the blue trail markers northwest from Lillafured to the Bukk Plateau, then looped back via the red trail through the Odor Castle ruins and down to Lake Hamori. Navigation was straightforward thanks to consistent trail markings, but carry a printed map as mobile signal is unreliable in the deeper valleys. The Bukk National Park directorate sells detailed hiking maps at the Lillafured and Szilvasvarad visitor centres.
Lillafured to Lake Hamori Circuit
Distance: 10.7 km | Difficulty: Moderate | Time: 3-4 hours
A rewarding half-day loop that takes in the best of Lillafured's surroundings. The trail passes the Lillafured Waterfall (most impressive after spring rains), winds through forest above Lake Hamori, and visits the entrance to the Anna and Istvan caves (guided tours available separately). The lakeside stretch is particularly scenic, with the Palace Hotel reflected in the water below.
Tar-koo Lookout Hike
Distance: 12 km | Difficulty: Moderate | Time: 4-5 hours
Starting from the village of Cserepfalu on the southern edge of the park, this trail climbs through oak forest to the Tar-koo lookout point at 950m. The view from the top covers the entire Bukkalja region, with the Great Hungarian Plain stretching to the horizon on clear days. This trail is less visited than the Szalajka Valley, which makes it feel more genuinely wild.
Where to Stay
Accommodation options around the Bukk range include designated campsites, mountain huts (turistahaz), and guesthouses in surrounding villages.
Camping: The Szilvasvarad Campsite near the Szalajka Valley trailhead is the most convenient option for hikers. Pitches are on grass under mature trees, with hot showers and a small canteen. Expect to pay 10-15 EUR per night for a tent pitch.
Mountain Huts: Several turistahaz (tourist huts) operate within the park, offering basic dormitory accommodation and meals. The Bukk Plateau hut is strategically placed for anyone doing the plateau traverse over two days. Booking ahead is recommended for weekends.
Guesthouses: The villages of Szilvasvarad, Lillafured, and Cserepfalu all have small pensions and guesthouses. These offer more comfort than camping at a modest price, typically 30-50 EUR per room per night. Eger, 30 km south, has a wider range of accommodation including hostels.
When to Visit
The Bukk Mountains are accessible year-round, but each season brings a different experience. Spring (April-May) brings wildflowers and flowing waterfalls after the snowmelt. Summer offers the warmest weather and longest days, though the forest canopy provides welcome shade. Autumn (September-October) is arguably the finest time, with the beech forests turning gold and copper. Winter brings snow to the plateau and opportunities for cross-country skiing, though some trails may be icy.
We hiked in early September and found conditions nearly ideal: warm during the day (18-22 degrees), cool at night (8-10 degrees), and the first hints of autumn colour in the higher beech stands.
Useful Resources
The Bukk National Park Directorate maintains updated trail condition reports and park regulations. The Wikipedia entry on Bukk National Park provides a good geographic overview, and the National Blue Trail website has detailed route information for the sections passing through the Bukk range.